Thursday, October 8, 2009

Harvest States


Back in late September of 2006, I traveled to Minnesota for the first time. My plane landed just after sundown, the sky to the west had turned a rich, deep red color. I was excited, as I had never been to Minnesota before, and it had been quite a few years since I had traveled anywhere new. I had done quite a bit of research on the Twin Cities in the weeks preceding my trip, and had a good idea of what places I wanted to see and visit.

On the ride from the airport to my hotel downtown, (I stayed at the graves|601 hotel... easily one of the coolest hotels I've ever stayed in.) I glanced out the window to my right, and saw the grain elevator in the photograph above. (Try to imagine it in fading twilight.)

Harvest States.

I had no idea what "Harvest States" was, (it's a division of the Cenex Corporation) but that sign painted on a grain elevator that sits next to Hiawatha Avenue was the first real indication I had that I was someplace that was very different from my life on the east coast. It was the first visible sign that I was no longer in the heart of America's industrial core, but was now firmly in the agricultural midwest.

Being from Buffalo, NY grain elevators were nothing new to me, in fact, for a short time, Buffalo was the flour milling center of the world, not Minneapolis. But times changed, and the title shifted to the Twin Cities which made sense, being situated on the Mississippi River, and closer to where most of the grain was actually grown after all.

On subsequent trips here from New York, the Harvest States grain elevator, and Archer Daniels Midland elevator and milling complex on Hiawatha Avenue in South Minneapolis, along with the mammoth abandoned Gold Medal and Pillsbury flour mills downtown became icons that represented Minnesota to me. Those of you who have had the opportunity to look through my photographic portfolio have noticed and commented on my "Minnesota Phase", and my attempts to find the artistic beauty in the grain mills, bins, and elevators that dot the states landscape. For a couple of years, I was obsessed with documenting every angle I could of the Gold Medal Mill, day, night, color, black & white, rain or shine... I'm still not happy with my results. Maybe over the winter, I'll venture down that way and try my luck again. (yes, I've added a picture of the Gold Medal Mill at the bottom of this page so those of you who haven't looked at my portfolio can see what I've been obsessing about.)

I took a detour from my errands today to take the above photo of the Harvest States elevator this afternoon.

As I stood in a McDonalds parking lot on Hiawatha Avenue focusing my camera on the sign, for just a brief moment, I felt the excitement of my first visit to someplace new.

It's amazing how something inanimate and meaningless to most can have such a profound effect on an individual.

See you tomorrow.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

A Flashback


The six consecutive days of rain finally came to an end last night, so I took the dogs for an extended walk just after sunrise this morning.

One thing I've noticed about Minnesota is the plethora of building "contractors" and "handymen" that seem to comprise nearly 30% of the states population. As I was crossing a side street, a pickup truck slammed on it's brakes and screeched to a halt. I was a bit taken aback by the attitude of the driver, especially since it was a four-way stop, and the dogs and I were in the crosswalk.

The driver was wearing a RealTree camo baseball cap, (because you never know when the opportunity to hunt will present itself near downtown Minneapolis) and looked like he only had a passing flirtation with a razor every other week or so. As I blistered his ears with a good old-fashioned New York-style cussing out, I looked at his truck. It was your standard pickup, with a diamond-plate tool compartment across the bed under the rear window of the cab. A crudely applied set of decals on the driver's side door announced that it was the property of Frank's Home Improvements.

I had to deal with another Frank once, while I was on summer break from classes many years ago...

*******

I found Frank drinking a beer on the second floor of an unfinished house. The house was mostly plywood and concrete, at least a month from completion. He sat on top of a cooler covered with peeling bumper stickers from local classic rock stations. A tattoo of a naked woman brandishing a sword on his left arm sat above a large Harley Davidson tattoo on his forearm. He greeted me the way a football coach might meet a new recruit.

"So you decided to show up." I thought I was on time but I realized that by Frank's watch I was late by five minutes. "What the fuck is your name?"

"Jonathan," I said.

"So you’re some kind of college boy aren't you. Well, my brother Larry went to college for eight fucking years. He owns this place and he hired me to put this house together so he can make some money from it. Larry’s a real smart guy and he has done well for himself. He needed a foreman so he hired me to turn this piece of shit into something nice. What do you think of that?"

"I think that Larry made a good choice,” I said politely. I thought that anything else might incite him, and I didn't know how to respond to the question anyway. I already had a bad feeling about Frank’s drill instructor management style. I was going to need more than eight dollars an hour to work for him.

"Damn right he did, college boy, ‘cause I know something about the real world. I don't take shit from no one. Now grab that shovel and pickaxe."

We walked around to the side of the house. Frank took the shovel and dug a small hole at the base of the house. He wanted me to expand the hole and continue it around the sides. It had to continue sloping downward to a depth of six feet at the far end of the house. The hole would contain the piping for a drainage system when I completed it. He threw the shovel at me and commanded, "Get to it." I started digging while Frank sipped from a can of Milwaukee's Best and muttered under his breath. After about thirty seconds, he grabbed the shovel from me.

"What's wrong? Does your pussy hurt?” he barked. Frank threw the shovel back at me. Frank got tired of pushing me around a half hour later. He went back to his cooler to pop open another can of Milwaukee's Best. About once an hour he would stick his head out of an upstairs window to yell instructions at me. I didn’t have much respect for Frank, but I found myself struggling angrily to prove myself to him. Digging under the hot July sun was uncomfortable and exhausting, but little did I know that it was about to get a lot worse. The shovel stuck something that felt like a granite boulder. I dug down to find solid concrete.

"Hey what is this?" I yelled to Frank.

"When we poured this foundation, a little concrete ended up around the edges. It’s no big deal what the fuck did you think the pickaxe was for?" responded Frank.

It turns out that there were several feet of concrete around the entire perimeter of the house. When I would hit the concrete with the axe, painful vibrations would shoot into my hands and arms. I fantasized about splitting Frank’s head with that pickaxe each time he shouted down new instructions. I wanted to quit this bullshit, but I was so angry with Frank that I attacked the ground like a maniac. I certainly could not understand it but I was obsessed with proving Frank wrong. I was not just a college kid on my summer vacation, but a proud American unafraid of sweat and hard work, the salt of the earth that kept this country running. I was starring in my own beer commercial. “This Bud’s for you.” I figured Frank and I would throw back a few at the end of the day, with Bruce Springsteen on the jukebox for ambiance. Frank would lean over and grudgingly give me his respect, “You know, kid you did all right today.”

I worked fanatically at the concrete for the next six hours, taking only a five-minute lunch break. My girlfriend at the time, Karen showed up with my car to tell me that she was going to be an hour late. I felt a sense of relief. I was struggling to finish the job by the end of the day. I needed that hour to finish the drainage system. I knew that Frank would be all too happy to point out my failure to complete the job. I pictured his smirking face and worked even harder.

Frank sat on the roof staring at my girlfriend. As Karen left, he walked down and started talking, a beer still in one hand.

"Who was that?"

"My girlfriend."

Frank stared at the ground for a second. He looked over the partially finished drainage ditch. He grabbed the pickaxe out of my hand and slammed it violently into a piece of concrete. He pulled a large piece from the ground.

"That’s how you do it college boy. I’m forty-one years old and I can still outwork you. I don't know what you’re planning to do, but you better learn a little something about hard work. The world is not going to kiss your fagotty ass. I’ve been working since the age of eighteen ‘cept for the last couple of years. You should watch how I work and maybe you can learn something."

I was about to say that I was planning on copying his style as soon as I found a cooler, two cases of Milwaukee’s Best, and quit brushing my teeth. The drainage ditch would be completed in another hour, and unfortunately Frank would be the one writing my check. Necessity dictated that I keep my mouth shut. I wanted my day’s wages. I owed it to myself for all the shit I had been through. Somehow I think that my silence allowed Frank to assume that I was trying to grasp the wisdom of my new mentor. His attitude toward me began to soften. He helped me lift a few of the bigger pieces of concrete. I had to give Frank credit, He was strong for a forty-one year old. He looked like he must have spent some time exercising in order to maintain his larger chest and biceps.

As Frank’s disposition improved, he decided that he was just the mentor that I needed in the construction trade. Though still abrasive, Frank treated me to much of his hard-earned wisdom. He would tell me to move my hands further down the axe or to hit the concrete at a certain angle. I think that Frank was beginning to enjoy my company or at least appreciate that he had a captive audience. He shared numerous insights into his uncanny ability to get the hottest pussy. “I’ll tell you, you should have see this girl, she was straight outta Penthouse, no shit. Let me tell you, I really gave her what she wanted if you know what I mean.” Frank slapped me on the back and sort of winked. He wanted to make sure that the sexual implication of giving her what she wanted was not lost on me.

Half an hour later he was attempting a few small jokes. He leaned back on the shovel and looked at the nearly completed drainage system.

"Well, I have to admit. you did better than I thought you would from looking at you.”

Anything aside from aggressive abuse from Frank could be considered exuberant praise. I was proud of myself even though my hands were cut and blistered and I could hardly clench my fist around the handle of the axe.

"You know, I took some detours along way, but I got real skills. Construction is great, but let me show you something.”

Frank carried a large drawing notebook from inside the partially constructed house. He leafed through the pages. It was filled with drawings of naked woman riding dragons, fighting dragons, or beheading dragons. All of Frank's heroines were either partially clad or completely naked, save a few armbands or a sheath for a sword. I think that any psychology student worth his salt could have completed a few volumes about the underlying themes running rampant through Frank's work. Freud would have made a career on Frank's drawings. I asked Frank a few questions about some of the drawing and he even bothered to smile a little as he answered. I think he enjoyed my interest in his work.

"Yeah, I know that I should be doing this. I got caught up with a few of the wrong people out in Batavia. It cost me my third wife and two years in Auburn.” This explained a lot. If I had spent the last two years lifting weights in the yard outside cell block D instead of reading text books and writing term papers, I might have done better with the concrete in front of me.

Frank seemed a little more human to me after that. I worked through the rest of the evening and gave Frank's brother Larry a tour of my finished drainage system when he arrived. Larry was built like a linebacker but he was soft-spoken and even a little shy. His polite comments and articulate speech contrasted sharply with Frank's abuse and profanity. Frank wanted me to haul off cans of paint and trash to the Cecos landfill as I left. I told him how much they charged and that I wanted another thirty bucks for the job. My request for payment was greeted with a new round of hostility. Frank’s antagonism seemed pathetic and transparent. I felt sorry for Frank but I was not going to waste my time unless I saw some money for it.

I finished up the job and asked for my day’s wages. "I'll give it to you tomorrow. What the fuck, you don't trust me?”

I assured Frank I had nothing but the highest confidence in his honesty while insisting that I needed my money in order to pay a bill immediately. My whole body ached, and I was prepared to split Frank's head with the shovel in my hand if I did not see my money. I wanted my meager wages for all the shit I had been put through. I refused to back down.

"All right. Jesus Christ, OK. What are you, Jewish? Happy Hanukkah ya little prick.”

Frank pulled out a wad of cash. He paid me while subtracting an hour for lunch and various breaks. I spent five minutes at lunch and my breaks were only long enough to catch my breath. I was tired of arguing so I just took my money, happy to be going home. I didn't dislike Frank anymore but I also didn’t want to lose money to him.

I sat down on the front porch of the house and waited for Karen to show up with my car. Frank had other plans for the trash after he found out that I wanted to be paid to haul it away. I watched him climb into the driver’s seat of a small backhoe. I wondered idly to myself why Frank hadn't just used it to dig the trench himself. He dug a hole in the middle of the front yard. He was shoveling half filled cans of paint and left over insulation into the hole as my girlfriend pulled up. Just as I was getting into the car Frank ran over to introduce himself. His whole demeanor had changed as he introduced himself to Karen.

"How are you? My name is Frank. Real nice to meet you."

Frank was falling all over himself with smiles and compliments. He told me to show up for work at 8:00 the next morning. He even asked me if I had a few friends that might be interested in helping out. I told Frank that I would make some calls to line up a few people. A mixer would be delivering a fresh load of wet concrete the next morning.

I knew that I had no intention of showing up for work the next day. I could not close my hand into a fist because of the vibrations from the concrete. I was angry about the four or five dollars that should have been added to my check. I smoked a joint just to get rid of the pain in my upper body so I could sleep.

Frank called at 8:15 the next morning. I picked up the phone and heard what sounded like some kind of Tourette’s syndrome. Frank was so angry he couldn’t manage to complete an entire piece of profanity. I was only able to catch pieces of the conversation.

"Cocksucker…in prison…when I get...cocksucker. I should… ”

Frank ended his tirade with something about knowing where I live. I assured Frank that I would be there in another fifteen minutes, pulled a bottle of Labatt's Blue from the fridge and sat on my front porch enjoying a beautiful Western New York summer morning. I thought of Frank and a mixer full of wet cement. Frank was right. I knew nothing about construction, but I did have a few ideas. Cement is very heavy, and you might need a few people to move it before it sets. The phone rang half an hour later. I told Frank to fuck himself and finished the last of my beer.

*******

I gave the Frank in the pickup truck my best "Get out of the truck and I'll beat you to death with your own tools and then feed you to my dogs" look, and took my sweet time crossing the street.

You're no better than me or anyone else Frank.

You'd better learn to live with that.

Monday, October 5, 2009

Nightmares And Dreamscapes


Apologies to Stephen King for stealing his title "Nightmares and Dreamscapes", but it was an appropriate title for this entry.

I had THE nightmare again last night.

The one from the first Gulf War where there's an Iraqi soldier on a roof with an RPG, and no one can see him except me, and no matter how loud I yell "WATCH THE ROOFTOPS!!!" no one can hear me.

I wrote this short story a few months ago in an attempt to exorcise that demon from my brain once and for all, and I thought it had worked.

Until last night.

Enjoy, and feel free to comment. It's based on an actual event I experienced at the end of the first Gulf War.


NIGHTMARE HIGHWAY

The doctor at the VA clinic finally admitted I may have a sleep disorder and entered it in my record. The entry gives me a few bucks of disability pay, but the dream hasn’t gone away.

It’s because of a recurring dream I have. I have it about twice a week, it's one of those where you think you’ve woken up but you’re really still asleep. No matter how many times I have it I never recognize it. In this dream I wake up and someone is in the house.

Usually there’re two of them, sometimes three, silhouetted in the bedroom doorway by the glow of the hall night light. They move silently but by their outlines I can see they’re not big men and if I could get loose from the sheets I know I could take them.

I struggle to get up as they cross the room, ready to lash out in defense of home, wife, and children - Individual Combat Training was the one gift I carried from the Army back into the world. But before I can kick free they are beside the bed. One of them leans over me and a weight bears down on my chest, pushing me into the bed, pressing the life out of me. Then the sheet fans over my face, blocking out the dim light as the pressure increases and I feel my ribs breaking.

That’s how I know it’s a dream - my ribs don’t pop, the sheet doesn’t rustle - there’s no sound. I hear voices when people speak, but not engines, or ocean waves, or footsteps. Not the way I dream, anyway.

Tonight I wake up in a low-tone body sweat, one foot on the floor as I coil to jump, ready to tear and rip and savage. But the only movement in the room is the ceiling fan pushing the warm, humid air. K stirs on her side of the bed. She raises on one elbow to look at me blearily, then rolls back over - she’s grown used to what an old girlfriend called my “jump-ups.” I look at her curled around her pillow and the tightness eases a little in my chest; everything is all right, everyone is safe.

I know it was a dream, there’s really no need to get up, but after watching two minutes click by in the red numbers of the bedside clock I get up, it’s the only way I can be sure. K inches over into the depression left by my body and mumbles a question. “I’m just checking on the kids,” I say. She groans and pulls my pillow under her head.

My old girlfriend called it “walking the perimeter”. Most of the women in my life have said I have too much soldier in me, but they don’t understand military training, they take so much out of you, they have to fill the hollowed-out core with something else. There’s the First General Order: I will guard everything within the limits of my post and will quit my post only when properly relieved. There’s eleven more - one for each of the twelve disciples, my drill sergeant used to say to make the Bible-belters choke.

I feel my way along the closet doors to the hall.

The girl’s room is next to ours. It is larger than our son’s because she is older; rank has its privileges, even at seven years. There’s a chest of drawers, a dresser with ornate mirror, a four-post double bed with heirloom quilt... K’s touch. It doesn’t look like a child’s room. There’re no toys or books or clothes strewn on the floor. There’s no little girl curled in the bed.

The other room is four running strides away. I know now before I open the door all it has in it is a treadmill, ironing board, and single blue Rubbermaid tote. I kneel down and remove the cover, as I do almost every night I wake up like this. My dress uniform is on top, wrapped in plastic; a set of ACU's under that; some woodland camouflage and desert camouflage BDU's not good for much other than working in the yard, and underneath, a stack of oblong padded boxes. My medals: a Silver Star, two Bronze stars, four commendation, and several achievement medals, a United Nations Peacekeeping ribbon, a southwest Asia service ribbon, and at the bottom, a green, white, and red Kuwait Liberation Medal, with its palm and crossed swords, and three Purple Hearts.

I duck into the bathroom to splash water on my face. There are no toys in the tub. I check the hollows under my eyes in the mirror, then turn and look over my shoulder at my back. The blemishes, leftovers from a conflict the government had never properly acknowledged, take up most of the space between my shoulder blades.

K thinks it’s funny how I scratch patterns in my skin like some tribal custom. Toward the end of a previous relationship, my ex would turn away when I stepped out of the shower, my back criss-crossed red from where I’d raked with my nails as far as I could reach. The VA says they don’t know what it is. The papers and TV are calling it Gulf War syndrome - rashes, disturbed sleep, chest pains, dizzy spells, irritability, memory loss. Memory loss, right. I wish.

I go back to our bedroom, trying to slip in quietly. I can tell by K’s breathing she’s not asleep. She’s been waiting for me, and when my shoulder touches her warm back she whispers, “So, how are the children?”

“Honey, I’m sorry,” I say.

“So am I.” She pops the sheet and moves to the far edge of her side. The cover settles over her like a shroud.

I’m not going to be able to get back to sleep tonight. I go downstairs for a drink, and check the doors and windows... walking the perimeter again. I think about the tall, fair-skinned farm girl I married.

I remember her sitting in the kitchen with no makeup on the morning after I got back from the gulf. Near perfect, looking like a million bucks even with her hair unbrushed.

“The children are quiet this morning,” I said. “Did they start sleeping in while I was gone?”

She paused in mid-sip and studied me over the top rim of her coffee mug, an uncertain smile trembling on her lips. “The kids?” she repeated. “Honey...”

“Did your parents take them for my first night home? That was nice,” I said.

She set the mug down hard, slopping coffee over her wrist. “What is this?”

“I guess I was looking forward to them coming to meet me at the airport,” I said, adding quickly, “Not that I mind. Last night was quite a homecoming.”

K buried her face in her hands. “What is this?” she said. “We don’t have any children!”

I stopped, then, seeing her shoulders begin to shake. I reached across the table to her but she flinched away, so I dabbed at the spilt coffee with my balled-up napkin. “Honey, I’m sorry,” I finally said. “I don’t know what’s wrong with me.”

She sniffled and blew her nose. “If it was supposed to be a joke, it was pretty sick,” she said, pushing her hair back and straightening up.

I closed my eyes against the light from the window, suddenly too bright. “I’m not feeling too well,” I said.

I wish I had known how to do right by K. Now and then I think I should have tried harder.

I couldn’t keep things straight after the first Gulf War. When my “jump ups” and night moves began, things started to fall apart. Imagine how you’d feel hearing your boyfriend go from room-to-room in the night, checking on non-existent children. I can only imagine what I put her through, pacing the floor of our old home where the hardwood boomed and rolled, and the creaking stairs kept record of my prowling.

Tonight I pad silently on carpet as I go downstairs for a drink. I stop with one hand on the refrigerator door; the front of the fridge is bare—no artwork, homework, class photos. No reason there should be. The kitchen tile clicks as one of the cats walks across the tile of our cookie-cutter home. It’s time to trim his claws again.
I’ve faced war, but I don’t look forward to grappling with that cat. But in the end I’ll do it. Fighting is a part of Army training.

In Individual Combat Training, they teach you everything is a weapon. Rifles and pistols aren’t much good when things are tight and confused. Then there’re bayonets, knives, rocks, branches and sticks, and the weapons you always have with you: feet, knees, elbows, bare hands, teeth.

Some nights, when I can’t sleep and the itching coils and burns on my back like a living thing, I would use my teeth to scratch if I could only reach. Do those sound like normal thoughts? I may have a disorder after all.

The VA won’t call it anything, because once they do they have to pay up. They just roll their eyes and mutter about how a collection of symptoms can’t be treated without knowing the cause. One of their experts wrote a little trifolder for Congress. It says the sleep disturbances, the rage, the skin rashes, and the social withdrawal of gulf vets are nothing new: Vietnam vets have them, as did those in Korea, World War II, even World War I. You look in Civil War or Revolutionary War diaries, you find something like it in there, too. I’ll buy that. I don’t care what they call it or who’s to blame - I just want someone to give me something for it. The fact is something happened to me that’s given me two lives: the life with K, and the life with these two children I keep looking for. If I can’t get both feet planted in one life or the other, the tension is going to split me right down the middle.

We have a wedding photo on the fireplace mantle that I concentrate on when I get confused — K’s wedding, her pale skin almost glowing against her white dress. There are no children in the picture. The only thing I don’t like about the picture is that the groomsmen, standing behind us, are a little blurred. The photographer could have done something to fix that--adjusted the shutter timing, depth of field, film speed, something. Especially seeing how fussy he was. I remember standing in the cool church sanctuary, smile frozen on like a permanent press as I waited for him to take the picture, already. I’ve known photographers who took better pictures in a lot worse conditions, in Kuwait.

This one magazine photographer hitched a ride with my team - right after the cease-fire. He was looking for a way, any way, to get into Kuwait or Iraq, looking for a story. What we ran into was a traffic jam.

For six miles, hundreds of Iraqi tanks, and armored cars were strafed, smashed, and burned beyond belief. Most were retreating on this two-lane road at night, fleeing north as their army collapsed. Then they were caught by our planes. Loot from Kuwait City littered the road. About a thousand soldiers left their trucks and tanks, ran off leaving criss-crossing trails of footprints in the talcum-like desert sand. They survived to surrender to coalition units.

Whatever or whoever remained on the highway died. Afterwards, I heard pilots chattering about finding great targets despite the night and low clouds. Missile launchers, trucks, tanks. We coordinated the flights of fighters by portable radio, stacking them up like airliners, and called down fire on these people for four hours straight. No one realized the actual damage until we reached the highway and called for the Navy Engineers Shore Party.

Shore Parties do construction - operating heavy equipment, putting up temporary buildings, carving runways out of the jungle. That day, the dump trucks and earth movers had been brought in for three purposes: to clear away destroyed vehicles, to repair the roadbed where bombs had damaged it, and to dig mass graves.

The engineers were pulling the bodies out of the wreckage, burying them to prevent disease, and recording the grave locations using NavStar so the remains could be recovered by the families and the Iraqi government. Since we couldn’t get anywhere until the highway was cleared, we helped.

The photographer went to work. “What a mess,” he said, checking his light meter against the desert. He fussed with the tangle of cameras and lenses slung around his neck, dabbing at them with a little brush. “Swear to god, I’ll never get all this sand out of here.”

There were so many dead they used bar-code strips to mark the body bags. The bags were green-black canvas and plastic, shapeless and slippery - it made the bodies hard to handle. We sealed the coins, cigarettes, books, toys, and letters we’d taken off the corpses in small packets, also bar-coded. It was tense work, messing with dead bodies, made worse by the unexploded bombs nearby.

Our planes had used cluster bombs on the convoy - fiberglass containers that broke up to spread hundreds of little bomblets over the target. Cute word, bomblets. Some exploded immediately, some were time-delayed, and some were motion-sensitive. They were still going off as we worked, like the last kernels in a popcorn bag. The photographer ignored our warnings and poked around, looking for a good shot, until the whir and pop of a bomblet disturbed two vultures. The birds flapped up and settled on top of a truck cab. He stuck closer to us after that.

The smell of dead bodies hung close to the ground in the still air, stronger in the deep craters and between the twisted, shattered vehicles. The First Sergeant passed out his stash of cigars to mask the smell, but they didn’t help much.

“I wish you’d stop moping around here,” the First Sergeant said to the photographer, offering a cigar. “Just take a couple of rolls and go back to your hotel.” He nudged a nearby body with his toe. It was curled up on its side, hands held close to its face like a baby’s. “Lookee here. This’d look good in a family magazine.”

“Bodies, bodies, bodies.” The photographer dismissed it with a wave. “What I really need is a blown-out tank, something people will recognize the general shape of but still be able to see it’s been blown to hell. Something worth a Time or Newsweek cover.”

We worked in silence a while, keeping our mouths shut to save energy in the heat and keep out the smell. As we rounded a gradual curve in the road, the photographer shaded his eyes and said, “What’s that?”

We thought he was pointing at two burnt-out tanks that flanked the road, their muzzles pointing skyward like charred fingers. Beyond them, a bent figure in white caught our eye, a smaller brown shape following him. As he shuffled through the shimmering heat, the figure solidified into an old man in a white robe. A greyhound-looking dog trotted close on his heels. As we watched, the man stopped, leaned over a dead soldier, and spat. The dog yipped and trotted forward, tail wagging, to the next corpse.

The photographer watched as the old man worked his brown lips behind his white beard, summoning up spit to waste in this desert. “Oh my,” he whispered, “A man and his little dog have just made me very happy. And rich.” Cradling his cameras against his chest, he trotted toward the old man.

I half-hoped the man would have a taboo or something against cameras, but we were into another big project. Beside the road sat the wreck of a truck, a black eagle and three green stars painted on the door - Saddam’s elite Republican Guard force. In and around the truck lay eleven bodies. One was wedged, upside down, inside the engine compartment. Nine more were tangled in the bed of the truck, legs and arms sticking through the side slats. Their hair and clothes were burned off, skin incinerated by heat so intense it melted the windshield onto the dashboard. One corpse lay on its back a short distance away.

We were just finishing up the last body when the photographer returned, shepherding the old man and his dog before him.

“As salaam aleikum,” the old man quavered, gently taking each of our hands in turn as the photographer snapped away. Peace be upon you.

“Wa aleikum salaam,” a couple of us replied. And peace be unto you.

The photographer nearly backed into the twisted remains of the truck trying to frame a shot of us and the old man. He turned and looked at it like a prospective buyer, then his face lit up. “Beautiful! The Highway of Death!” he said, like it was a movie title. His autowinder whirred and chuckled as he filled another roll of film.

My senses were so dulled by lack of sleep and the morning’s work that the sound of the camera blended with the chopping beat of an approaching helicopter. The old man and his dog watched it set down on a cleared section of the highway, eyes gleaming with excitement.

An Air Force major hopped out the side door, his flight suit crisp, looking odd to us as we stood there in our baggy DCU's, none too clean. He made straight for the truck and circled it, pausing to finger the ragged edges of a hole where shrapnel had shredded the tailgate.

We snapped to attention before saluting like we were taught to do back in basic any time an officer appeared. As the helicopter blades slowed and the engine shut down, we could hear the major more clearly. He was talking loud and not making much sense.

“It’s my truck,” he said. “This is my truck! Used an optical-guided bomb, thousand-pounder.” He smiled a little and shook his head. “Swear to god it hit the truck driver in the ear.”

The photographer snapped portraits of the pilot. “So you’re one of the architects of the Highway of Death,” he said.

The major’s face tightened. “Now, I don’t see that you should be calling it that,” he said as the photographer shot on. “It wouldn’t look good in print.”

“Yeah, major, but look around you.”

The pilot looked around at the field of charred, smoking remains. “Hell,” he said, “I’ve seen worse back home around Miami.”

He noticed us where we were still standing, watching him. “Hey, Army, am I right?”

He hadn’t spent his morning the same way we had or he wouldn’t have asked. We said nothing, but he could see the answer in our faces and on our hands, coated up to the elbows in soot and gore.

“You men carry on. Go on about your business,” he said finally.

The last body from the major’s truck resembled a man-shaped mound of rich black dirt. The flesh and the tunic were fused together. Arms outstretched, helmet and rifle just out of reach of the curled fingers. Oddly, the face was untouched by fire, eyes closed and forehead wrinkled as though in concentration, prayer maybe.

The pilot, the photographer and the old man and his dog stood watching as we worked gingerly with the crumbly remains. The First Sergeant looked up at the photographer. “Want to get a picture of this one?”

“Naw,” he said. “These people have been burned so black that you have to open the lens two extra stops to get any detail at all, and then the background washes out too bright.”

“You know,” the pilot said, looking from the body to the truck, “I think this was the guy standing on top of the cab my last pass. The other guys were trying to get out of the truck, scrambling like ants when you kick over a nest, but this guy was shooting at me. No way he could lead me enough to hit me, hardly time to see me, but I remember seeing his face light up from the muzzle flash when he fired. Saw his face on the bomb camera.” He stood there a minute, gouging the powdery sand with his boot. “Damnedest thing I ever saw,” he said finally. He started to reach for the rifle and helmet, then stopped.

“These been checked for booby traps?”

“No, sir,” the First Sergeant said. I think he winked at us, but it could have been the smoke from his cigar tearing up his eye. These soldiers had the hell bombed out of them in the darkest night, they were just trying to get away from anything that would draw fire - they didn’t have time to think about rigging traps.

“We haven’t been checking for booby traps, sir,” the First Sergeant said.

“Well, don’t you think you should? Isn’t that one of your jobs?”

The First Sergeant didn’t answer, just cut me a look that said it was my job - rank has its privileges. Booby traps aside, I was pretty careful with the helmet, who knows but by some freak odds it could have landed on top of a bomblet or something.

I was lucky, nothing but a small photograph and a scrap of paper. I passed the helmet to the major. He fingered the raised eagle on the front as we watched.

“Be a nice souvenir, sir,” the First Sergeant said. “That and this rifle would look real good over somebody’s desk.”

The major looked sharply at the First Sergeant, but he kept his face blank and tapped some ash from his cigar. Removing captured weaponry from a secured area for purposes other than research or training constitutes looting under the Hague Conventions, Chapter 1, Article 28. We had to memorize that one before the ground war started.

The major turned to the rest of us, but we got real interested in getting this last body put away. I turned the photo and paper over in my hands while someone fetched a pouch. The paper was a letter in Arabic script, elegant curves and swoops, unreadable but nice to look at. The photo was of a man, the soldier I decided as I checked his face against the picture, and his family.

The background of the photo was blurred, but it looked like he was kneeling in front of a riverside park, with boats drawn up on shore. He held a husky young boy in front of him on one knee, maybe about three years old. An older child, a girl, maybe seven, slim, leaned against his other shoulder and looked out of the picture with dark, serious eyes. The soldier and the two children were dressed in white. He had his sleeves rolled up and his collar open, relaxed, on leave maybe. A woman in turtleneck and slacks, olive-skinned and full-bodied, with a black abaya shawl draped over her arm, stood behind the father and two children. She had the raised eyebrows and fixed smile that’s universal body language for “take the picture, already.”

The father’s clearly happy keeping an arm tightly around each of his children, and they are happy being held. Our cultural briefings before the war told us Arabs value sons more than daughters; you couldn’t tell that from the picture.

Most women in Iraq don’t wear the conservative black abaya veils, but the woman in the picture, probably Shiite, must have taken hers off just for the photo; one fine dark hand gripped the fabric tightly, ready to draw it back on as a shield against the public eye. I felt like an intruder, a voyeur. They were a family in their element, frozen by the photographer on an outing on a sunny afternoon, and things would never be the same for them again.

The old man in his white robe looked at the picture, then leaned farther over, his hand on my shoulder, to spit on the soldier’s face.

“Hey!” I shoved him away, clutching the picture tightly in my hand as I stood and faced him.

The old man shouted a string of shrill words none of us understood. His dog crouched and growled low in his throat. The major looked at me, then the rank on my sleeve. “Let the man go on about his business, Sergeant First Class. It’s his country, after all.”

“He’s done with this one, anyway,” I said, crouching to draw the body bag closed. I guided the zipper shut over the soldier’s face and smoothed a bar-coded label across the top. The photo and letter slipped into the small pouch without effort. His bones must had been made brittle by fire - when I clipped the thin package to the body bag I felt his ribs give, like dry sticks as they settled under the pressure of my hand.

“Now, Sergeant First Class,” the officer said, clearing his throat, “if you find more rifles I trust that you’ll save them for my unit.” He paused, then added, “For training purposes.”

Article 91 prohibits disobedience to a lawful order. Article 93 prohibits disrespect to a senior officer. That’s the Uniform Code of Military Justice, instilled in us from day one of basic training.

I saluted. “Yes, sir.”

He stared at me, trying to decide if I’m tweaking him or not, but finally returned the salute and started for the helicopter. He gave me a last look over his shoulder. I still hadn’t moved from beside the body. “Carry on, soldier.”

“I ain’t a soldier,” I muttered as the helicopter lifted over a cyclone of dust. “I’m a future ex-soldier.”

“Ain’t no such thing as an ex-soldier,” the first sergeant said. “Look, your cigar’s gone out.”

The photographer tried for a shot of the hovering helo, but the sand whipped over him and he turned away, shielding his cameras with his arms and body. “Swear to god,” he said, “I’ll never get all this out of here.”

I know how he feels. I’ll never get all this out, either. Anger, confusion, respect for an enemy who would rather fight a jet aircraft than hide, his family’s loss, his fatherless children.

It’s like a blemish or a scar on a piece of wood. There’s no quick and easy way to take the scar out and make it like it was never there. No easy way, and no reason to expect there is. You can just work at it a little every day with sandpaper, removing the top layer little by little until finally there is just a hint of it, and if someone looks at it who had never seen the blemish they would think that there is nothing. That is the only thing for it.

Besides that, there is nothing you can take for it. Tranquilizers, maybe. The VA doctor offered to prescribe some to help me sleep, but cautioned me that it would just mask the symptoms, and could cause some mental confusion. Figure that’s the last thing I need.

Along with the night visitors, that soldier’s family is an image I see again and again; I’m not sure what they mean, but I cannot stop seeing them. I still dream about him out on that road. The look on his face. Eyes closed, concentrating, at peace. I’ll never get him out of my mind, just like I thought I’d never get the smell of burnt bodies out of my nose, mouth, and hair. The experts say you can’t remember a smell--the same ones that say there is no color or sound in dreams.

I check the doors and windows and lie down on the sofa where I can see the door. When the sky lightens, maybe I can sleep for an hour or two. In the meantime I stare at the popcorn ceiling, with dimples and hills like a map of another country, another world, and think.

If it hadn’t been for that day out in the desert, would I be sleeping better?

I’ll never know. It might have been better or worse, all I can be sure of is that it would have been different.

Sometime I’d wake up to the dawn light, and not think of scratching my unblemished back. Somewhere the soldier would sit sipping sweet tea in the market souk with his war veteran friends. He refills his glass from a simple copper pot and tells his one war story about living through a midnight daredevil drive out of Kuwait that beats the others’ all to hell.

On another night, I’d wake up to a child’s cry. I whisper to my wife beside me, and she rolls over sleepily and asks me to give our son a glass of water.

In another place he would lift his daughter into a boat from the bank of the river as his young son brandishes a dry reed like a sword, while his wife in her flowing black robe looks down and laughs, her dark eyes shining over her veil.

On a sunny afternoon, I’d sink to my knees on wet green grass, exhausted from chasing my soccer-playing daughter, only to be tackled by my boy, half her height but her equal in energy.

In some of those places he lives, and in some I truly live. In those worlds I am at peace.

Friday, October 2, 2009

On Being A Hypocrite


I must be getting old.

Today I turned down a kid who asked me to buy cigarettes for him. I told him cigarettes are bad for you.

“Because they’re bad for you,” I said and shook my head in bewilderment.

Where did that come from?

Why would I use the word, “bad?” I meant to say, they’ll kill you, give you painful lung cancer, drive you insane with addiction. Not, “they’re bad for you.”

I’ve passed judgment. Something is wrong. Especially since I still smoke the occasional cigarette myself.

I must be getting old.

I wandered home and forgot about the kid. But, there he was again, darting through my head. The minor. Just a kid and his buddy. Just a fifteen year old with a scowl and the spirit to ask strangers to buy him cigarettes. I was floored he even spoke to me. Why me? Do I look like the kind of guy who would buy an adolescent cigarettes? Who do I look like to you? I feel older. I guess you thought I was just old enough.

Old enough and cool, the kind of guy who wouldn’t give a kid a lecture. I wouldn’t ignore him or twist and scowl myself, tell the punk to get lost. He thought I might do it, might take his money and stroll into the bodega, buy the smokes, take the change and hand them over.

"Sure, no problem." he wanted me to say.

He wished I might say that. I was cool. I understood. I dig it, brother.

I’m getting old.

I’m sorry. Maybe a few years ago I could mutter those words, even tell them to myself off and on.

But not now. I know too much now. I’ve seen what happens to people who think they’re invincible, who refuse to pay attention. If I haven’t seen it happen live, then I’ve watched it on TV or read about it in the papers. It happens. You hear about it all the time.

Sorry kid, I thought one last time and put my purchased two-liter of Dr. Pepper in the fridge. I wish I’d said more to you. I wish I hadn’t told you smoking’s bad. I wish I’d stopped and spoken with you. I wish I’d asked you why you smoke, asked how old you are, what grade you’re in? Whatcha wanna do when you get older, when all this being young shit dies off and you got lots of time to fill? Whatcha wanna do then?

You know why? You know why I ask? Because I’d like to see you do it. I believe in you. You can do it. You really can.

But I didn’t.

Because you’re young.

And I must be getting old.


See you on Monday.

Thursday, October 1, 2009

A Thursday Like Last Friday



For today's entry, my original plan was to continue yesterday's comparison of the Buffalo, NY and Minneapolis, MN park systems, but when the dogs got me up this morning, a glance out the window told me immediately that it wasn't going to be a park kind of day.

It was chilly, cloudy, and pouring rain. It stopped for a a couple of hours, but has just started up again in the last few minutes... this time with lightning and thunder added in. As a result, I have a neurotic German Shepherd/Akita mix wedged under my legs and squeezed against the couch trying to hide from the storm, and a ditzy Rottweiler bounding around the apartment with a squeaky toy that quite frankly, I am not motivated to take away from her, because she'll just dig another one out from wherever she stashes them.

It's a pretty blah day here in the Twin Cities.

For those who have noticed, the photos that appear at the top of this blog are usually relevant to the subject matter, but I gave you a gray, rainy photo last Friday. So I decided to sort through a folder of 200 or so images I took back at the end of June of this year, but never got around to looking at. The "artiste" photographer that lives somewhere deep inside me has gotten into the habit of NOT immediately looking at a set of images I have recorded, and manipulated in some way if I think there is something REALLY special in amongst them.

I was pleasantly surprised to see the above image, as I had completely forgotten about the strange and wonderful light and shadows that were evident about an hour before sundown, and my first attempts with HDR. Originally, my game plan for that weekend had been to attend the Western Fest Stampede and Rodeo in Granite Falls, but those plans changed when it was made apparent to me that Granite Falls was someplace I wasn't exactly welcome that weekend. I was pretty bummed out by that, because I knew it was the beginning of the end of my relationship with Yellow Medicine County... I had actually begun to think of rural southwestern Minnesota as home. It was a harsh reality check to suddenly realize that someplace actually existed that wouldn't accept me... especially considering that I had easily assimilated into every other community that I had ever lived in... even in some of the more redneck areas that abound near Ft. Benning, GA, and Ft. Bragg, NC. It sucked, because Western Fest was an event that I had been looking forward to, and 2009 would have been my third year in a row there.

When I found the above image, and the reasons I was actually IN Minneapolis to take it came back, I felt an odd rush of emotions. Sadness, which morphed into anger, which out of the blue suddenly became acceptance, and the feeling that everything was okay.

Not great.

But okay.

That image reminded me that regardless of what else was happening in my life at the time, I could find moments of order and beauty everywhere around me if I remembered to look for them, and with a little coaxing on my part, find another level of beauty altogether.

Yeah, it's been cold and stormy and gray all day.

So what?

Today's a beautiful day anyway.

NEXT: Something Not Quite So Maudlin